Let me tell you about the time when we spent four months living on a remote island off the central coast of Vietnam.
My friends didn’t believe it when I told them that it was quite tough. They thought we were on holiday our whole time there! I wouldn’t blame them, from the pictures that we posted on social media, it seemed like the perfect heaven to roll out your beach towel and watch the day go by while sipping on (multiple) daiquiris. We were working at Six Senses Ninh Van Bay, one of the most beautiful places in Vietnam that I have encountered. Beautiful turquoise waters embracing fine white sand and dramatic rock formations while the mountain encompasses the entire bay with lush greens and tropical jungle creatures. The resort itself was also quite impressive, or as one travel blog described, barefoot eco-luxe at its best. Imagine rustic natural wooden houses with crisp earthy-colored linen (and air conditioner of course, are you crazy?! :p) nestling in complete privacy. Every villa came with its own swimming pool, outdoor shower, wooden bathtub overlooking the bay and its own private butler, who catered to guests’ every need, no matter at which hour of the day.
I was excited to be at such beautiful place, but more fascinated with its operation. Behind these 59 secluded and beautiful villas was an entire village with 400 staff to make (or attempt to make) everything go smoothly. They harvested and filtered their own water, grew their own organic garden (more for show, but still), produced their own electricity, and even made their own essential oil (60 kilograms of lemongrass to produce 300ml of essential oil, see, fascinating!). There were people specializing in carrying guests’ luggage up the hill, people sorting out fruits, people filling minibars, people catching seaweed… It was more or less a village trapped on an isolated island where gossips and rumors went around as fast as the endangered monkeys swinging on trees from one end of the bay to the other.
We arrived at the resort with less than one week notice and no idea what to expect. It took me less than two days going to the staff’s canteen to realize how ridiculous all the clothes I had brought along were. What was I going to do with my high heels and short skirts and tank tops in this village where most people wore uniforms long after working hours? I ended up taking half of my closet back to Hanoi a month later to switch off with more ‘normal’ clothes (picture digging up my closet for some long jeans and old t-shirts, or as one of my girls put it: ‘nerd-ing it up’).
Over the first few weeks, we quite enjoyed settling into this new and exciting environment, something that both of us always dreamed of (beach resort, isolated place, back to nature…). Working in hospitality was quite a funny thing, you always started off the day with the same routines (briefing with the team, walking with guests over breakfast, making reports for the next day…) but took different twists and turns during the day and ended the night exhausted, thinking of some of the crazy shit you just witnessed during the course of the day. It was completely expected and unexpected at the same time. I was happy we had each other to share stories at the end of the day. I secretly loved riding my bicycle down the hill late at night, breathing in the fragrance of fresh jasmine (up the hill of course is still a different story). We saw monkeys hanging outside of our simple room every morning on the way to work. Finding sand in bed did not bother us anymore.
Sadly, the honeymoon phase wore off pretty quickly. Long working hours and different schedules meant we did not get to see or talk to each other so often. We were still new at the job and had a lot of acquaintances to smile and say hi to but not real friends to share past stories with. And absolutely no social or night life! Loic would be working long dinner shift into the night and I would be sitting outside on our front steps waiting sometimes, craving for dinners with family or a night out with the girls (please note that this was before we bought a TV, things improved drastically after that, feeling so lame to tell this story already!). Rumors also got around about how the GM over- favored us, leading to quite a few jealous looks and insane gossips to follow shortly. It was still a small village with veteran-staff who were afraid of changes and acted superior to everyone around them after all. Turns out it was quite easy to feel lonely living among 400 people.
Here I would fast-forward through all the sad cheesy needy stories to get to the exciting part where magic happened to us and we lived happily ever after (not quite :p). It took just a few people with the same mindset and outlooks to make things much better. So we were not too crazy with all the politics and drama going on here after all! We soon embraced our new friends, who, surprisingly, were either newbies or different from the rest like us. There was this fun pastry chef who let me hang out in his kitchen and fed us delicious desserts every night (it got to a point that we would expect something magnificent from him for any occasion…even the smallest). The young hilarious guy who seemed to know the ins and outs of everything on the island, the guy behind various late-night eating and drinking sessions at host bar while always asking me to join him on a diet. The lovely young girl who laughed so often and easily, sang songs and fed cookies to me, the girl who could finish my sentence in a funny story that only the two of us could understand. There was also this guy who tried to look and act tough but had a soft spot for his little doggie, we would have a really mean conversation, challenging the other in a total bullying way and laughed so hard and felt so good about it. And then there was this sweet guy that I consider a brother (sometimes older, sometimes younger), we talked so much about everything, growing up in two different parts of the country, being trapped, dreaming of something bigger than both of us… we also shared a very special intimate 15-minute fish massage session at the shopping center where we had to try to hard not to laugh and scream at the same time. I will not forget to mention Worstie, our little dachshund friend who pissed and pooped all over our room and then slept in our bed on his back with four legs up in the air like the cutest thing ever. We miss you all very much.
We are gone but hope the memories stay. Those long random ‘Another Day in Paradise’ email chains that I had to delete from my work email on the very last day, it nearly broke my heart. Those late afternoons when we decided to escape from the office and walk around the organic garden to snip some veggies before heading to host bar for instant noodle. Those late nights when we drank beer and gin tonic at host bar and talked about life and relationships while bats flew madly over our heads. Days when we forgot to eat running around and days when we got fed so much running around. Group itineraries for the exciting days off ahead in the city and pie charts to split costs the week after. The friends who visited us in the city and on the island (whom I presumed we all took to Skylight, the best place in town) and the friends who failed to visit (who are now called ‘Van Anh’s imaginary friends’). Our culinary tour of Nha Trang that spanned over 9 restaurants/bars in one night (which turned me into ‘the pregnant-looking lady who danced and drank like crazy at Sailing club that night’). 5am drunk kebab sessions followed by 10am movie shows. A lot of wine bottles and midnight swims. Followed by even more of elbow-dances and face-plants.
So this post is for you my friends, just to capture a few moments of one very memorable summer when we spent four months living on a remote island off the central coast of Vietnam. Enjoy this cheesy moment and know that we miss you very very much, our island crew.
A truly beautiful place…
Me attempting at yoga with Ink, my Thai friend
Little Worstie’s first excursion to the sea
Cake and more cake, this one is for our first Anniversary
Me walking on air in the organic garden
Cousin Mi came to visit and got into so much trouble 😉
With Haykel, the birthday boy at Patrick’s, after quite a few bottles of wine already
Haykel and his girls Alexandra and Vladimira
Before our heavy eating night out, innocent faces not knowing what was coming yet
At Skylight with our usual punch bowl, oh how we miss that place!
Haykel in his elements
Â
Elbow dancing with the master Vlado
Me and cousin Diep happily drunk at Sailing Club
Mi and Diep came to visit at SS!
And of course, Haykel had to make a cake!
The Nha Trang crew
My brother and sister (the other one refused to come with us)
The master of fake Vietnamese smile
I went hiking to the top of the mountain (and thought I almost died)
Our farewell cake, delicious berries and pistachio mousse creation
Our last day, with my dear team
Saying goodbye was tough, but it’s not too bad while on the other side of the bay, we were greeted by two crazy guys and continued the farewell party for 2 more days.